Lisbon has, in the last five years, become one of the more interesting cities in Europe to be a reader. The combination of low rents, returning expat Portuguese, and a steady inflow of writers from across the Lusophone world has produced an unusual density of small, serious bookshops.

This is a guide to nine of them, from a 200-year-old institution in Chiado to a one-person poetry shop in Graça.